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Sunday, June 24, 2012

On the Röstigraben


Being soaked randomly after having a bucket of water thrown on you from a window above is perhaps not the best way to be welcomed into a town. Nevertheless, I was quite content in Fribourg – besides, the heat soon dried me. Fribourg is situated right on the Röstigraben – where French and German speaking Switzerland meet. The town is bilingual (predominantly French) and somehow seems to work just fine.


The view over Fribourg from the bar.


I went there with a flat mate in order to visit another friend and we had a tightly packed programme. This first involved getting up a 3.30am to witness the sunrise on a mountain summit. We enjoyed our well earned breakfast - continental buffet style – right on the summit, watching the sun rise, albeit behind clouds. Watching a sunrise can feel magical, but so can lying in on a morning!


The sunrise from the summit of Kaiseregg.


We also wanted to take out a boat and head from Thunersee to Bern, but the water was still pretty cold. We settled instead for having a chilled out barbeque. We did reach Bern in the end anyway, taking the lazier option of the train. It was nice to be back in Bern, but I still find it hard to believe that it's a capital city, or a city at all. Despite there being quite a big demonstration in front of the parliament building, the place still felt quiet and relaxed.

Monday, June 18, 2012

Hiking in Kandersteg


Yet again, I went into the mountains this weekend. It's simply not possible to be in the Alps too often, each visit is as enjoyable as the last. The Erasmus Student Network organised a hiking weekend in Kandersteg; a tiny, alpine village in Berner Oberland – close to the cantonal border with Valais. A beautiful mountainous region not a million miles away from the well-known areas of Interlaken or Jungfrau.


The valley seen from the west face of Bunderspitz.


We arrived in the village on the Friday evening, giving us the chance to fire up the Finnish sauna cabin that we had to ourselves. Definitely a good shout – and I could really enjoy the sauna, although had it been after the hike – my sunburn would've probably made me suffer. Sunburn, which I have to add, that only seems to have got to my nose and ears: not a great look!


Steinbock sighting.


The hike itself was pretty decent, good weather and conditions and the route was cool too. We headed up to the summit of Bunderspitz before traversing around the east face of the mountain and descending to the west via a pass – where we witnessed a spectacle. A lone steinbock (a rare alpine mountain goat), which strolled up to a cliff edge beside us and simply jumped down – running down a vertical crag – not only without dying, but with grace!


The scree slopes of the eastern face of Bunderspitz.


On the Sunday, before heading back to Zurich, a challenge awaited us: Jacob's Ladder. A simple task of climbing a set of wooden ladders, the catch being that the rungs began at one and a half metres apart and the gap increased incrementally. It certainly sounds easier than it was in practice. An uncomfortable challenge complete with many compromising positions – spectating was definitely more entertaining.


The Jacob's Ladder challenge: everyone in the group managed, some found it more trickier than others.


Again, another great time in the mountains. Now that the Summer is upon us, I'm sure I'll get some more hiking done too.

Monday, June 11, 2012

Opinion: The Economic Crisis And The Swiss Perspective


Being a Euro-sceptic Brit living with Germans and other students of economics has lead to many interesting debates regarding current affairs in Europe. We tend to have different opinions on many issues, although I do find the Swiss here to be equally as Euro-sceptic. Many of these 'debates' are usually held after a few beers – alcohol tends to make philosophers of us all!

Switzerland, not being a member of the EU, is lucky enough to still have its own currency, allowing it to cushion itself from the turbulence of the surrounding Euro zone. Having control of their own currency, the Swiss are able to change their interest rates – much like the UK – in order to suit their own economic needs, whereas the Euro zone nations find themselves tied to the same rates. A disadvantageous situation indeed, which lead to the crisis in Ireland – the Euro zone-wide set interest rate resulted in creating catalyst conditions in the Irish property market. A bubble which popped quite spectacularly back in 2009.


'We want the Deutsch Mark back' Graffiti in Constance, Germany.


The current crises in Greece, Italy, Spain, Portugal and Ireland are prompting Europeans to reduce their exposure to the Euro and to increase exposure to perceived safe haven currencies, such as the Swiss Franc and indeed the Pound Sterling (despite our own harsh economic climate at home). This frenzied purchasing lead to the overvaluing of the Swiss Franc, crippling the Swiss export industry. The Swiss cheese and watch industry are not to be underestimated! Back in November the Swiss National Bank then set an artificial peg to the Euro of €1 : 1.2CHF to protect the Swiss economy. The Swiss Franc is probably the most overvalued currency in the world.

Swiss protectionism has created a noticeable island within the Euro zone. As I have mentioned many times before, prices in Zurich are high – antisocially high at times. The plus side is that this keeps the Swiss relatively prosperous: unemployment is very low, Swiss farmers aren't priced out of the market and consumers can afford to choose high quality, ethical goods (such as organic products) more so than anywhere else I've experienced.


Swiss Francs are a perceived safe haven for European investors.


I remember as a teenager being excited at the prospect of the EU and the new Euro currency. I was (and still am) hugely in favour of greater European integration – I loved the idea of being more easily able to head to the continent. But even as a teenager, I realised that the Euro could not work as a monetary union involving so many different European countries with differing compositions, interests and positions on the business cycle. The main advantages of the Euro are often said to be trade and ease of mobility. Whilst I cannot argue with ease of mobility, I refuse to believe that the Euro is a prerequisite for pan-European trade (again, citing Switzerland and the UK as examples).

Indeed the very same currency which set out to improve the welfare of Europeans seems to be endangering it. For example, I doubt the Irish with a high unemployment rate are currently benefiting from any increased trade. The exception is Germany, whose export industry benefits from the cheap Euro.

The Swiss don't seem to be interested in joining the EU any time soon, particularly considering the crisis, which may end up threatening this country, should the proverbial hit the fan. Fortunately direct democracy in Switzerland ensures that the Swiss will only join the EU project, if they so wish.


If you have any comments yourselves, please leave a comment!

Tuesday, June 05, 2012

The Scenic Route To Milan


Over the weekend, me and four of my flatmates decided to take a break. It's the middle of the exam period, but taking a break can be just as important as studying! That's my excuse anyway. We decided to go to Milan and take the scenic route: the mountainous Bernina Express route meanders over the Bündner Alps dropping back down into the Italian foothills. 'Picturesque' doesn't even come close.


The Bernina Express route took us into 120 tunnels and over around 50 bridges in the alpine canton of Graubünden.


The route took us through a UNESCO World Heritage Park in the Engadin (South East Switzerland). Three or four hours usually suffice to reach Milan, but taking the slow, scenic route, we spent 9 hours on the winding tracks. The time was made enjoyable, not only due to the magnificent views, but also because the train conductor was extremely friendly, taking it upon himself to sit with us and tell us jokes about the Zürchers and the Americans (with an American friend present) – just great!


The view from the village of St. Moritz.


For lunch, we made a quick pit stop at St. Moritz, the most expensive and most exclusive ski resort of Switzerland. A mountain village where jewellers and banks outnumber ski hire shops and cafés. One of the few places on Earth more expensive than Zurich! So we just had lunch and went swiftly on our way...


The Swiss Italian villages on the South side of the pass.


Crossing the border into Italy, leaving the Alps behind us, we could immediately sense that we were no longer in Switzerland. A €5 train ticket to Milan (on a less than stable train), Mediterranean heat and a slower, yet slightly chaotic approach to life all indicated that!


The cathedral – and crowds – the pope was in Milan on Sunday.


Milan is no pretty city, especially for Italian standards, but it is definitely a city worth visiting. It's not far from Switzerland either, as I mentioned earlier, it is possible to get there in four hours using the more direct train. This was my first time in Italy: the first of many I hope – even just simply for Italian cuisine. It's certainly earnt its reputation. I made the most of the occasion and filled myself like a king at each meal time – not being in Switzerland, I could afford to too!


A typical street in Milan.


A very enjoyable weekend indeed – I now hope to see more of not just Italy, but also the Italian speaking parts of Switzerland. There's something about the relaxed atmosphere which immediately appeals to me. Next stop perhaps Logarno and Locarno?